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Getting the SD card out is awkward too, in my mailbag video on Monday I showed a couple of sd extension which work well for it, you might want to check that out.

@4:00 I also reviewed the non pro version of this microscope some time ago, very happy with it. I recommend a different way of mounting it, mount it at the end of the lens instead of the base of it, gives much more working height, although I had the basic stand, yours is probably going to be fine.

Dude I love your channel. They way you explain everything is so beginner friendly!

mine wont even power on , can hdd caus this or mosfet or other fault?? i get sound green light but doesnt actually power on idk been awhile i want to fix it

Typical techy "I'm NOT done yet" LOL

“This Guy is shorted straight through” would make a good T-shirt

Really shoulda watched the whole video before I started, I dont have a soldering anything

when you went to measure current and saw nothing, I wondered if you forgot to swap the probe lead on your DMM from voltage / resistance to current. The camera doesnt show the DMM lead inputs, only the screen. Only at 17 mins into the video, so if this was the case, I will see if you notice or not as the video progresses

great it works now

Uniformation sent me a defective printer and is refusing to issue a refund. I’m now out $850. Be cautious when dealing with them. Their support is argumentative, slow to respond, and generally terrible. They have no problem taking your money, but once they have it, you're on your own.

Love your videos, you always explain what you’re doing or looking for in terms I can understand. Keep up the great work 👍

Were you get the schematic?

I wanted to add one thing: Don't be tempted to re-use the existing metal hinges, even though they look and feel fine. They're not. HP uses a hinge lubricant known to dry up and thicken over time. I sometimes call it a warranty timer. Eventually, the hinges become so stiff that you're exerting 60+ lbs. of force on the plastic mounting posts every time you operate the lid, and the posts just snap off, causing the hinges detach as they did here. So it's critical to replace the hinges with new ones with fresh lubricant. However, There is an EASY way to re-use the existing hinges, but it takes a little extra time. There is a :"clutch nut" on the end of each hinge which you can loosen around 1/8th of a turn with pliers and vice grips to reduce the force needed to operate the hinge. Loosen it too much and the lid won't stand upright, so you have to be careful. That, plus a little bit of spray silicon lubricant on the old hinges, will not only give the hinges a new life, but will prevent this problem from ever happening again. It's actually a more permanent fix than replacing the hinges, since the lubricant in the new hinges will thicken just as before after a few years. I've been fixing laptops professionally for over13 years and have personally repaired this model HP more than once.

I tried this. It didnt work. It said that there was an over charge or something like that on my monitor and that it was gonna shut down my pc in the next 15 seconds to protect my motherboard.

Can I still used lenovo ideapad 100s for online class without any issue this year 2024

Do you also repair PC motherboards?

Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.

@Adamant_IT I had guessed this was caused by a shorted TVS diode on the data, clock, or battery present lines, but I guessed wrong. The Inspiron 550x-series may not even have TVS diodes on those lines. You really should open that battery. It is fairly simple to remove the hard plastic shell over the PCB, so you can examine it. Thanks very much!

Well, I think restoring the burnt trace with a much thicker wire is not a good idea.

Great Video Graham - hope you guys enjoyed coming up to my part of the country and visiting RMC - do you get a chance to talk with Neil?

seeing as I'm seeing comments all surprised that this works...my mind's kinda blown, i just ordered splitters thinking i needed them for my lighting setups

Good one 😊

Just fixed my xps 15! All voltages and symptoms were the same! Thanks a lot

You might have had a different amp reading if you put the pins across the break in the wire.

Great video. 👍 Though one thing puzzles me on this particular laptop is: The BMS handles the battery side of current, data, and clock sense pin information, what IC handles the motherboard side: The PCH?

You don't have to brute force find clock/data. They both have a zener diode on the battery side. So if you put red probe on gnd and find a voltage drop of .7V or .8V you found data or clock. That narrows down the brute forcing.

Issues with Dell laptops; sometimes the charger itself is faulty and does not change the battery.

Strangely enough, every Latitude 7490 I've seen (and it's been quite a lot), I've had to replace the battery, as it's turned into enough of a spicy pillow so as to push the bottom of the laptop apart. It hasn't happened on any other Latitude I've seen, only 7490's (and a handful of 7390's).

Watching this on a Dell Vostro5568 . 👍

"I've changed multi-meter, there is a fuse blown in that one" "Now lets measure the current" Completely unrelated sentences!

Very interesting video. Such an odd failure mode. To me the trace didn't even really look burned, more like a physical incident. Bit of constructive feedback: at times it was very unclear to me which battery is connected at the moment (when you were measuring the sys detect current). Just clarifying each time which battery you were connecting would have helped a lot. Also I would've loved to see what would've happened when plugging in the old battery after fixing the trace. Although I get that that's a bit risky. Keep up the good work! :)

Always a good sign when it doesn't catch fire!

A very interesting repair good job.

Great work as always Graham. Thank you

As always, a really good video with you explaining along the way. This in particular was good because of your in depth explanation of the communication between battery and motherboard. One more thing you have that some other vloggers lack and that is humility. You are so humble despite your knowledge and ability to explain. Keep up the good work and cheers to you and your team. Best regards Magnus

How many latitudes did Sy sell while you were busy with this repair?

Wow see all your production team and even caredog!

I had this issue on a Lenovo legion 5 just opened the device disconnect the battery and press power button to discharge then reconnect the battery and it started charging and using the battery!

I saw that battery tester and thought I was watching Sorin!! Nice job!

when looking for interesting videos to make.. you can buy this "USB killer" dongle and zap some laptops. it would be interesting to see how badly damaged/repairable they are after that treatment. even old ones. ;)

Maybe what happened is actually that the battery was connected and disconnected for some reason in the wrong way otherwise it doesn't seem to make sense why track blew up like that. Great video Graham!

Great explanation of the system/battery presence signals and demonstration with the battery analyzer. Just a note, on the schematics R4310 is a series resistor, the pull-up should be somewhere else before that. Burning the trace would have required several amps going through it, it would have burnt the multimeter fuse (at least in mA/µA range, but if the current came from the battery it'd probably have exceeded the 10A of the A range as well) before you could take a reading if the issue was still present. I'm not sure what happened though, maybe someone tried to unplug the battery with steel tweezers and shorted something inadvertently or dropped them on the board. If the battery rail actually got sent there I'd suspect the BMS to be damaged as well. Also, I'd have soldered a very thin and small wire just to link the burnt trace so that it could burn again if there was still something wrong. With a thicker wire you run the risk of something else burning, for example a via which would burn the PCB internally as well. (here there's still a decent length of thin trace that could burn but you never know)

I was there when the sausage was made! Great honour!

love the video

Great repair video definitely one of my favorites and hello to Sy, Muerto, Carradog and especially Catriona.

Good morning

Hey. It would be nice if you could make a new version of that system maintenance/troubleshooting/windows clean up video that you did a while back. It was very useful, and really needs an update. Cheers.

oh that is what you were doing on Saterday night boozing on hahaha good fix to by the way

Might have just been corrosion too, the resist looks to be missing rather than burnt off. Sometimes on a pcb the copper can be contaminated right at the beginning of manufacture.

Excellent content and another laptop fixed and back in the hands of the customer, what a great crew too, especially the guy that stands around holding a fire extinguisher just in case of IGNITION